Monday, July 23, 2007

Bastille Day

Well, I can no longer say that I have never attended a world class national event. Even though the national event was in France, I can attest to the fact that it was indeed world class. Bastille Day in Paris is an event that people brag about being able to attend and that rivals some of our biggest celebrations, like our Fourth of July on the Esplanade in Boston, The Macy’s Day Parade in New York, The Marti Gras in New Orleans or perhaps even getting close to being on par with New Year’s Eve in Times Square.
I have always wanted to attend something on this scale, but always found ways to “avoid the crowd” and celebrate from afar. Now that I have broken the ice, I will not be so reluctant to brave the troubles that are often associated with attending one of these gatherings. The excitement and memories that were created just by being among so many people who are just out to celebrate with others is well worth the hassles of the event.

Bastille Day is celebrated all over France, but, in Paris, Oo La La, they go all out! The party actually starts on the evening before at some of the major firehouses that are host to the Fireman’s Ball. The ball begins inside the emptied out firehouses and before long the roll up doors are open and there is literally dancing in the streets that quickly becomes a blockade for the surrounding blocks. I decided to go to Place de la Bastille, knowing that if there was a major party to be had, that would be the place it would be. Wow, I was right on the money with that one. There had to be upwards of 15 thousand people crammed into the streets surrounding the roundabout and monument. Huge LED screens showed the majority of the crowd what was happening on the stages that were put up for the live bands that had the crowd on their feet the whole night (it did help that there was no way to sit down). The surrounding streets had vendors selling sandwiches, beer and other party fare and there were so many of them that the lines moved very quickly. Warm beer for 4 Euro (about 5.30 U.S.) however was not something to brag on. As the evening wore on some of the revelers began to celebrate with fireworks and the popping noises throughout the crowd made me realize it was time to leave.

The Parade on Saturday morning along the Champs Elysee's was unlike anything I have ever seen. Security was better than at the airports with the guards’ even having individuals open their umbrella’s to inspect them and collecting their water bottles at the check point. Everyone was scanned by a hand held metal detector, then frisked just to make sure, yes even the women were patted down (of course by another woman, don’t be silly). The line started early, about two hours prior to the first wave of the procession and although I was well back, I was admitted to the inner ring of spectators prior to them closing it off, because once the parade started, no one else could come into the inner ring, mainly because the guards that were doing the check in wanted to watch the parade too.

It was more like a military show than a parade. First the newly elected President with his mounted guard rode by. The only band in the parade by the way was the mounted guard. The crowd applauded, more politely than in celebratory revelry as he passed by. Then came the first wave of the fly over with several jet’s streaming blue white and red smoke to create a never ending French flag overhead. Then wave after wave of military aircraft of every imaginable shape, size and function flew over lasting about 20 minutes.

It was some time before the next showcasing of hardware began, but when it did start it was pretty amazing to see all the tanks, cannon’s, rocket launchers, communication vehicles and every sort of personnel transport you could imagine come out of the side streets and stream one after the other, four abreast down the road. All of the occupants looked very professional. Eyes front, stern look on their faces and those that were sitting looked just as rigidly at attention as those that could stand. The end of the ground parade was the fire department vehicles. They say that they are at the end because they are all hung over from the party the night before. This was the only part of the whole parade where people actually cheered. At the very end there was another round of fly over’s this time showcasing various makes and sizes of helicopters.

I thought that the best part was at the end as most of the spectators turned and left the areas, the troop transport buses began to leave. As they came back around, those of us that were left waved to them as they waved back, and it was the only time that there was an interaction between the crowed and anyone in the parade.

That evening, I walked down to the Eiffel Tower, and saw two concerts and then the fireworks back lighting the tower. There were about 30 to 40 thousand people there and the mood was very friendly and the crowd was very orderly. I was amazed at how courteous the crowd was, no one was pushing or shoving and no one was out of line. There were even a couple of cases of people meeting new friend in the crowd that got more and more compact as the time for the fireworks got closer.

Due to my position in relation to the tower (about halfway down the plaza) the fireworks seamed low. But they certainly were colorful and there were plenty of them. The musical backdrop for the event was a movie theme, with songs from films from around the world. The sound kept cutting out and it was very comical that the crowd would boo, hiss and call out when the sound crackled out and then cheer as the sound was restored. This happened throughout the event and will probably be how they people that come each year remember this particular event.
(of course pictures are posted, just click the link to the right of this message)

It was early morning by the time I waded through the crowd, and found my way back to my neighborhood. I went to sleep that night eager to come home, but grateful for the time I spent in France, and with deeply embedded memories of a celebration I will always remember.

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