Travel Log 5-19-07

It has been a while since I put a travel log up. I wanted to catch you all up on what has been going on in Paris.

The sights, sounds and aromas of the city have changed over the last few weeks, and so have the people. You know from previous logs that the city was pretty grey and cold in an overall sense. The cloudy days prevented any of the sparkle of the city to shine through except on occasion. However it was too far between those moments to make a difference in the overall feel. But I am glad to tell you there is a difference now. It still rains frequently, but not all day, and the trees, grass and flowers have come to full life. The additional life adds a softness to the city that absorbs not only the grey, but takes the edge off of noises as well.

The views of the buildings, although more obscured than they were when the trees were bare, have a glowing contrast against the darker shades of green, the reds, yellows and blues of flowers and the Ever growing spectrum of colors being worn by the pedestrians. The contrast in colors also helps with moving peoples eyes off of the wintry downward fixed position. Now people have raised their heads, and I think they like what they see. I notice more conversations as people move through the streets. They open laugh, in what seams like an instant they have gone from totally independent recluses to community of people.

The air is much more diverse with the aromas. Not all of them good, but I will say that there are more reasons to breath in on a clear day than there used to be. The laws of physics take hold of the air molecules. As the temperature rises, atoms become more active, and thus the air begins to convect, moving up and out, mixing with other air of different temperatures, you can never tell which direction it will take next.

Today, I walked through the Natural History Gardens and smelled the pines, and roses mixed with the moist smell of fresh turned soil. Then to the Menagerie, a small zoo that is part of the museum complex. There I sat and watch a very interesting display. Orangutans in an exterior glass enclosure. I watched as the apes and people interacted with only a thin sheet of glass separating them. I noticed children discovering just how much we are like each other, and how amazingly agile the moved through their enclosure. I saw the parents watching the children, and then gazing themselves at the animals. I saw a sadness in the adults eyes masked by the smile on their face as they watch the children. I think the glint of sadness was for the Orangutans, being captive. The female, lay listlessly near one corner, at eye level and up against the glass where children could come close by and tap on the glass to gain her attention. The male, moved slowly across a ledge at the back of the enclosure, methodically removing any straw that he found clinging to the ropes, bare tree trunks and rock work that made up his kingdom. Maybe the parents saw themselves through the glass. Always on display, trapped in a world where your span of control is very limited. The female, not satisfied with what her life delivered, resigned to listless days. The male, always having to do something, trying to maintain what little control he has over his kingdom.

I was somewhat surprised at the parents who not only let the children ignore the rail barriers around the primary enclosure, but either ignored it themselves or instructed the children to ignore it to get a better picture. At one enclosure there was a very large Ass (yes like a donkey, not an idiot), the father took the two small children, both under 4, and stepped over the low rail barrier and to my delight, turned his back on the Ass who quickly but quietly walked right up behind the guy and let out a series of brays that would peel bark off of a tree. I really did try not to laugh, but everyone else was, so what the heck. The man jumped as if a hot stick was stuck where the sun don't shine, and began running in mid air like a cartoon character. The children, both screamed at the same time and ran for mom who was as white as a ghost and was so scared she couldn't even get the picture. Lesson learned, I hope.

I then went to Isle St. Louis and walked the Rue St. Louis en l'ille. A narrow street with lots of shops, restaurants and galleries. The street was full of pedestrians, eating ice creams and taking pictures of each other in front of shop windows full of pastries or cheeses.

I then went to Cite', the island that was the first settlement of Paris and houses Notre Dame. Coming from Isle St. Louis, I approached Notre Dame from the rear, where there is a small garden park. On a raised bandstand, nested under large Sycamore trees, a brass band made up of a dozen or so tweens (Between kids and teenagers) all dressed in royal blue band coats and complete with matching hats was just setting up. I sat and listened to them play and noted the stark contrast of lively swing style music against the ancient facade of Notre Dame. The setting (except Notre Dame as the backdrop) took me back to New England towns that had bandstands and where on warm summer evenings the town would turn out to hear a brass band play the favorites. Again the colors contrasting made quite a nice feel, and the leaves of the trees helped to soften the harsh sound of trumpets and french horns. Around to the front and much to my amazement there was a very large white tent set up in front of the cathedral with several otherones flanking the walkway leading up to the entrance. I was in luck, a bread bakers competition. The large tent had several sections of kitchens set up each making different types of breads, including, Pane Chocolate, or Chocolate Croissants, (banned years ago in France due to a National Health Crisis). OK, it had been a while since breakfast and I had no lunch, and they were giving free samples. I was lucky enough to get a sample of something I have been hunting for a long time. Pretzel bread with salt on top. OMG, you could have sent me straight to heaven and I wouldn't have known the difference. What a way to end the afternoon, enjoying the sights, sounds, aromas and now the taste of France. Long live the bread!